a guide to america’s largest home + asheville recs
tucked in the foothills of the blue ridge mountains lies america’s largest home and a true national treasure. young george vanderbilt, visited this remote part of north carolina in 1888 and had a vision of creating a home for entertaining. what ensued is magnificent, and you KNOW the history buff in me went crazy at the biltmore estate.
vanderbilt contracted frederick law olmsed, made famous for his design of central park, and richard morris hunt to build the french-style chateau — sparing no expense to make it perfect. it took six years and 1,000 workers to bring this dream to life.
george, along with his new bride edith stuyvesant dresser, moved in the home in 1898 and gave birth to their only child, cornelia in 1900. george however, didn’t get to enjoy his grand castle for long, dying at the age of 51 in 1914. edith continued on with her husband’s vision though. to protect the land and beauty of the region, edith sold 87,000 acres to the united states forest service. that land is now pisgah national forest, one of the first national forests east of the mississippi. the biltmore is truly the birthplace of american forestry.
the house was opened to the public in 1930 to help tourism in the area and for the first time, people got to take a look into the grand home. later, during world war ii, the house played a key role in art preservation. in an effort to protect art from a possible german attack on washington d.c., 62 paintings and 17 sculptures from the national gallery of art were transported to the biltmore, where they remained behind steel doors with armed guards until 1944.
today you can find 250 lavishly decorated rooms spanning three floors and a basement, impeccable gardens, a winery and 8,000 acres of land. the biltmore offers a few different tours to visitors starting at $64. the audio tour provides an enhanced experience that gives you a little more insight into not only the family but the house too. it's $76 and so worth it in my opinion - it's where i learned most of these details! next time i go back though, i'm splurging and opting for the $284 2-hour private tour - a customized experience based on your interests!
the spiral staircase is a work of art itself, 13 guest rooms make up one wing of the house and the basement has a pool. A POOL. in the basement! the family actually lived in the home until about the 1950s and one time, they had a pool party but when they woke up the next morning, all the water in the pool was gone. that’s when they found out about a leak, and since then the pool remains empty.
george was an avid reader whose library amassed some 22,000 books - my dream!! each room of the house has some little story, an anecdote that serves as a gateway into the past. i imagine when the home was once a bustling community with maids doing the laundry, cooks working away in the kitchen, kids running around the grounds. what a time!
after the tour, visit the stables where you'll find various shops filled with biltmore souvenirs, an ice cream parlor and a cafe. might i recommend the pimento cheese dip? it's so so good. plus the converted stables are such a cool atmosphere. the walls are filled with old black and white pictures of what the stables looked like in their hayday (lol punny!!!) even the horses lived large. can you tell i loved it here? to this day, biltmore remains a family-owned property, welcoming guests from near and far.
ok, that’s enough of a history lesson — let’s move onto the city of asheville because i’ve got a few recommendations for you. an artsy community rich with history and culture, asheville north carolina is that place you hear about and instantly want to visit. it’s got a small town feel even though nearly 100,000 people live there. between local breweries, eclectic shops and delicious restaurants, you’re going to find something to love here.
where to eat
while it’s not unique to asheville, tupelo honey is a must visit. made-from-scratch, southern inspired dishes fill their menu. the sweet & spicy chicken sandwich has a real kick with its sriracha and honey topping, while biscuits for a cause proceeds go to tupelo honey employees in need — what a fun place!
every city and town has a delightful italian restaurant with dishes that make your mouth water and for asheville it’s strada italiano. the menu is extensive and allergy/diet friendly; gluten free & vegan options come by the plenty. sometimes you just gotta go with the basics and the strada alla panna just nails it — housemade spaghetti tossed in creamy parmesan & provolone sauce with cracked black pepper!
isa’s french bistro is the french inspired cafe that asheville has perfected - it’s literally their motto. their all day dining options offer exceptional cuisine in a relaxed environment. try the bistro hash skillet for breakfast, french onion soup for lunch or prime rib for dinner - you won’t be disappointed. my favorite: the truffle mac & cheese!
what to drink
ah we meet again! isa’s french bistro also boasts incredible drinks. hand crafted cocktails include a la vie en rose — vodka, pomegranate, cardamom & lemon, topped with rose petals — and an asheville iced tea —vodka, rum, tequila, gin, triple sec, lemon & lavender complete with a hibiscus flower!
at antidote think speakeasy meets swanky pub. their slogan is “the cure for the common cocktail” so you know you won’t find anything boring on their drink menu. at the recommendation of a friend, i had to come here to try a drink. even though they’re known for gin concoctions (they make their own), i opted for a spicy pear martini. actually, i went for two because one wasn’t enough. the warm & cozy drink was also very refreshing!
next, you’ll need to stop for a drink at the inn on biltmore estate. this early 2000s hotel is just as grand as the house up the road. the inn on biltmore estate is a four-star hotel devoted to treating their guests like the vanderbilts. overlooking the blue ridge mountains in the distance, enjoy a drink in the library lounge. they have every liquor imaginable and crafty cocktails to match the wide selection. pictured below is a drink i don’t remember the name of but tasted heavenly.
where to stay
aside from the aforementioned inn on biltmore estate, set your sights on the kimpton hotel arras in downtown asheville. the city is nicknamed the paris of the south and this boutique hotel reflects that - an art deco design with metals, dark fabrics and mod decorations. it’s in the center of everything and boasts beautiful mountain views. when you’re not lounging in your spacious room, enjoy a glass of chardonnay at district 42, a chic bar + lounge, or dinner at bargello, a mediterranean inspired restaurant, both conveniently located in the lobby.
an omni property, the grove park inn exudes a luxury cottage feel. the stone hotel, clad with a terracotta roof, offers world class amenities like a subterranean spa, indoor & outdoor tennis courts and pools, a sports complex and multiple on-site restaurants. they're known for their massive lobby fireplaces. it's been years since i visited, but i'm sure i could still fit inside. (enjoy this picture of baby alex in 2011)
the place is also rumored to be haunted! that fascinates me, but it scares the hell out of others - take that as you will! the resort is just another beautiful place in the mountains of western north carolina. the clean mountain air is even rumored to heal all ailments. it's why edwin wiley grove, the "father of modern asheville" decided to build the grove park inn here in 1913.
while it was the biltmore estate that drew me to the area, asheville has everything you'd hope for in a road trip - restaurants, breweries, wineries, historical sites, art galleries and more. although he couldn't see the booming community that would come, george vanderbilt knew there was something special about the blue ridge in asheville.
have you been to the biltmore? asheville? what are your favorite places?